Build It

How to build a modern Adirondack chair // Outdoor Woodworking Plans

Learn how to build a modern Adirondack or outdoor chair for your patio and add modern outdoor seating to your backyard! Thanks to Bernzomatic for sponsoring this video, check out the TS8000 torch & MAP gas I used on this project! #sponsored

I have plans available for this project! (Plans coming soon, subscribe to be notified when they’re live) :


???? Materials Used On The Adirondack Chair (affiliate):

???? Rockler Zip Driver Screws :
Thermally Modified Ash :
CA Glue and Activator :
Brad Nails :
Wood Glue :
1 ¼” Pocket Hole Screws :
10’ of ¾” Copper Pipe :
4 Copper Elbows :
2 Copper End Caps :

???? Tools Used On The Outfeed Table (affiliate):

???? TS8000
???? MAP gas
???? Powermatic 209HH Planer :
???? Powermatic PJ-882HH Jointer :
???? Powermatic PM1500 Bandsaw :
???? Rockler Countersink Bit Set :
???? Rockler Plug Cutter :
???? Infinity Tools Super General Saw Blade :
Soldering Kit :
Table Saw :
Push Stick :
Miter Saw :
Speed Square :
Magnetic Screw Holder (for my impact driver) :
Cordless Drill :
Pocket Hole Jig :
Sander :
Brad Nailer :
Japanese Pull Saw :
Block Plane :

???? Get your Build It Yourself merch!




Adirondack Chair Build Process:

I broke the Ash boards down into rough lengths at the miter saw and bandsaw. Next, I started working on the metal framework. I cut the 3/4” copper tubing pieces to length.

Next, I applied flux to the end of the tubing. To solder copper, you want to heat up the joint until the flux melts and then basically wipe the solder across the tubing until it melts and flows into the joint.

After finishing soldering, I could get back to working on the wooden portion of the chair. I started by ripping the arms and legs to final width at the table saw. I then cut the boards to length using my crosscut table.

Next, I could get to work on the joinery for the chair. I went with pocket holes.

The next pieces to work on were the back legs, which have a parallel angle of 20 degrees cut on each end, and I made these cuts over at the miter saw.

Next, I marked the location of the back leg on the front and back sides of the front leg.
After pre-drilling the holes through the front leg, I clamped the back leg in place using my t-track table and drove the screws.

I could mark out where I needed to cut a flat spot on the back legs. I could then cut to my line using the jigsaw, and I cleaned up the cut with my low angle block plane. With that, the main structure of the chair was assembled, so I could attach the copper base.

Next, I could get to work on the back panel. This is a simple assembly of four boards connected with two perpendicular cross supports at the top and bottom of the panels.

Next, I needed to get the back panel attached to the back legs. I lifted the panel into place and added the screws.

With the back panel installed, I could work on attaching the last parts of the chair, the seat. I started by adding the front seat slat. After clamping the board in place, I drove in the pocket screws.

Next, I could get the copper base removed for finishing. I used a file to remove any excess solder around the joints. I used a self-etching primer and then sprayed on a few coats of flat black paint.

I wanted to plug all of the screw holes using a plug cutter. After cutting the plugs, I popped them out with a flathead screwdriver and added the plugs to the holes with wood glue. I trimmed them flush with my Japanese pull saw.

With that, all that was left was sanding. I sanded the chair up to 180 grit, making sure to break all of the edges. I also hand sanded between all of the slats.

And with that, all that was left to do was reattach the metal base.

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